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France

My Paris

Paris was everything I ever wanted and more.

We flew in super cheaply on Ryan Air and we landed in Paris Orly. It was pretty frustrating trying to figure out how to get into the city, and then we ended up having to sit on a crowded bus for nearly an hour. We got dropped off and still had to take the metro to get to our hostel too. Off to an absolutely exhausting start. We bought some metro tickets and were looking at a map when a lady stopped us to try and help, surprisingly nice for what I expected from Parisians. She also explained that we didn’t need any tickets that day because the air pollution was high! So we saved them for the next day (which also turned out to be a high pollution day).

We made it to the hostel, which we loved. I have rave reviews of St. Christopher’s Inn Hostels. We rocked up and they upgraded our room to a private one for free! Can’t get much more magical than that!

The first night in Paris we ate a meal at the hostel’s restaurant and then went to Notre Dame. It was so beautiful, I couldn’t believe it. There was a choir inside and the ceiling seemed to swell with the music. We really took our time walking around, and I’m so happy we did because I might have missed one of the most amazing relics in any church – the crown of thorns. Its all the way at the back of the cathedral and it’s barely lit, you really need to look for it. I was amazed. Even if it isn’t the “real” crown of thorns, the power of that much belief and history makes it a really special relic.

The Crown of Thorns is at the back of the cathedral behind a red curtain.

While I was standing there, staring, with my jaw on the floor, someone called Lucas’s name. “What?” We both looked around. “There’s no way someone is calling for you, is there?” And this guy came up and shook his hand, “Lucas, it’s so crazy to run into you here, man!” Lucas introduced me and the guy said his name was Lars and introduced his girlfriend too. They knew each other from their time at university in Prague. The craziest part, besides the fact that they even noticed Lucas, was that they weren’t meant to be in Paris that day, and they hadn’t planned to come to Notre Dame at all, since they had both seen it before! It just felt like all the stars were aligned.

We parted ways and headed towards my favorite part of Paris- the catacombs. We had such a hard time finding it, we went to where the map said it was, but there wasn’t anything marked there. Just a small kind of shack looking building. I almost thought it was a house, and I was way too nervous to just go inside. I made Lucas open the door and there was a lady at a desk. We looked at each other and before we said anything, she said “26 Euro.” Lucas was so taken aback, he asked in English, “is this the catacombs?”

“Oui.”

We payed and she pointed to the stairs, so down we went. The air was getting musty, and the walls were turning green the deeper we went down. At the bottom of the stairs was a long tunnel and we followed it until we saw an incredibly old man sitting alone in a folding chair.

We walked through an archway and Lucas translated it for me- Stop, this is the empire of the dead. It felt like we shouldn’t have been allowed in, especially not alone. We walked slowly, talking about life and death. Sometimes we were silent. It was the only experience I’ve ever had like it, and when we reemerged to the Paris streets, bustling with Christmas shoppers it felt like a completely different world. For the rest of our experience in Paris I couldn’t stop thinking about all the dead beneath our feet.

The next day we woke up early to spend as much time as possible in the Louvre. We both had lists of artifacts that we were dying to see- a full day of art. It was incredible, I loved seeing the book of the dead, the Egyptian artifacts, and the statues, Lucas loved seeing Hamurabi’s code and Liberty Leading the People.

After the Louvre, we were starving, and we were lucky to find a McDonalds underneath the museum, where we indulged in some French sprite, which is better than any other sprite you can get. After our very late lunch, we walked along the Seine, and headed towards the Eiffel tower, which was on strike. I thought, at least we got to see it, and we walked through the Christmas markets drinking hot Vin Chaud and eating Nutella filled beignets.

We tried to visit the Pantheon the same night but it closes early. Luckily because it was closed I had the chance to peek into an interesting looking church that I probably wouldn’t have seen if we had gone straight into the Pantheon. The church was Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, beautiful white stone, spiral staircases, and the body of St. Geneviève – the patron saint of Paris. It was such a special find.

The next day was our final day in Paris. We walked past Notre Dame in the light, walked along the Seine, saw the Moulin Rouge, the Arc de Triomphe, walked Champs Elysees, and when we went to see the Eiffel Tower again, we saw that the strike ended early! I was elated. We went up the elevator and stopped on the first floor, where I was absolutely shook to see a fully fledged ICE RINK. We walked on the glass floor drinking Vin Chaud and taking pictures before going up to the next level, where there were shops and restaurants, and the third level, where you can walk around Gustave Eiffel’s apartments. There are wax figures and signs inside.

We still had some time in the day, so we walked back towards Notre Dame where we went inside the Paris Archaeological Crypt where we learned about the rocks and quarries of Paris. Right across the street was a wonderful little cafe where we got some escargot and French onion soup!

The final thing we did in Paris was visit the Pantheon. Lucas had stopped at a book stall on the walk and bought a couple of books. One of them happened to be Voltaire, and when we saw his grave, it was another one of those fateful moments. It was really special to pay our respects to so many important figures.

I love Paris!

Categories
France

Paris

Paris is just as magical as everyone says it is. With a few slight adjustments for French culture. 😉

Notes and Warnings about Paris

  • When you fly into Paris, you’ll either be at Charles De Gaulle or Orly airport. They’re both surprisingly far from the city itself. Orly is closer, but it’s harder to get to the city. Your options are a bus or a taxi, both pricey and about 45 minutes. Charles De Gaulle has cheaper options and is connected by rails, but it’s a little bit further away. Just set aside a fair bit of time to get into the city.
  • Strikes! The French LOVE to strike. Strike for more days off, better pay, working conditions, anything. When we were there the Eiffel tower workers were supposed to strike for a week, and we were only there 3 days. Luckily the strike ended early, and we got to go up, but we almost didn’t get the chance! Just don’t get your heart set on anything too specific if you only have a few days.
  • The Paris metro is like any other European metro, except that when air pollution is up, tickets are free! I think it is a great system, and even on those free days, it isn’t too packed (I was there in winter though, so grain of salt). The even better part about getting around Paris is that you can reasonably walk between everything you want to see.

Must See in “Paree

I feel like most of the “must sees” in Paris are obvious, but I will list them anyway!

  • Notre Dame – An AMAZING church. Before visiting, I wasn’t aware that the crown of thorns was inside, I couldn’t believe it, and just stood in awe. You could miss it if you aren’t looking for it. Notre Dame is also extra special when there is a choir singing inside. I didn’t get the chance, but I hear it is absolutely worth it to pay the extra ticket price to go up to the rooftop. I wish I could have seen the bells and the gargoyles, especially before the fire, and I really regret not doing it.
  • Eiffel Tower – You have to go up the Eiffel Tower, even if it is cloudy. I think it is worth it. I was surprised that there were shops and museums on different levels of the tower. That might be common knowledge, but I was actually super surprised. And my favorite part of going in winter is that there was a full fledged ice rink on the second level!
  • The Louvre – Absolutely the best museum in the world. My advice is to do your research before going and make a list of all the things you want to see so you don’t miss them. It’s impossible to see everything.
  • The Catacombs – There is nothing else like it in the world. A once in a lifetime experience, and worth every minute you’ll stand in line to get in if you go during peak season. If you want a special solo experience, go in the dead of winter late at night. If you want to know just how spectacular I think the catacombs are, feel free to read my “article” about it.
  • Arc Du Triomphe – Its beautiful!
  • Walk the Champs Elysees – so much to see and buy!
  • Walk along the Seine – Take in that romantic Paris vibe.

(Slightly) Off the Beaten Path

  • The Catacombs – I’m putting this on this list too because even though it is a MUST SEE, I feel like half of the people who go to Paris don’t know it’s there.
  • The Pantheon – If you like cemeteries, this one is incredible. Notable names interred here are: Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Louis Braille, and Marie Curie.
  • Saint-Étienne-du-Mont – This is one thing that doesn’t even show up on the tourist attraction map, but is something truly special. (It’s very close to the Pantheon.) One of my favorite cathedrals I have ever been in. It is home to the reliquary of St. Geneviève – the patron saint of Paris!
  • Moulin Rouge – I didn’t go inside because it’s 180 Euro and has a dress code, but if you love the movie, it’s cool to at least see the outside!

Overrated

  • I personally don’t think it is worth it to pay the 12 euro to go to the top of the Arc de Triomphe, but I didn’t do it myself, so I can’t tell you for certain if it is worthwhile.
  • There is a museum underneath Notre Dame that will teach you all about the stone quarried to build it. It’s very informative, and it was interesting to me, but if you’re super strapped for time, you wouldn’t miss much if you skipped it.
  • The love lock bridge – it’s romantic, but the guilt from putting a lock on and destroying the bridge kind of ruins the vibe.

What and Where to Eat

  • This might sound crazy, but you have to try French Mcdonalds. (There is one in the shopping center underneath the Louvre in case you stayed too long, are starving and can’t wait for a real restaurant.) You especially need to drink a French sprite. It is so much better, and I can’t quite put my finger on what is so different about it.
  • Try escargot while you’re there!
  • Macarons, obviously.
  • Definitely get some Quiche Lorraine.
  • Eat all the cheese and all the bread.
  • Just like Spain, you have to get fresh squeezed orange juice. The machines they use make it so much better.
  • French onion soup
  • Crepes
  • Beignets

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Uncategorized

Paris: Catacombs

I wrote about the catacombs for a travel writing class I took in college and I went back and edited 5 different pieces together to make this. It’s a little different from my normal writing style, but I hope you like it.

Nothing was turning out the way I expected it to. We couldn’t find any restaurants we could afford, the workers at the Eiffel Tower were on strike, the sun had gone down, and it was bitingly cold. This wasn’t the Paris I was hoping for, and I was desperate for at least one thing to turn out right.

The last thing to try was the catacombs. We followed to map to where they were marked, but there was nothing there! After wandering into 3 different buildings, we were ready to give up, when Lucas saw an unlit, brown sign that said “les catacombes,” in small lettering.

We followed the sign, but all we saw was a dark, unlabeled shack with closed doors. It was late and I felt weird about just opening the door, but we were a bit desperate. We pushed the door open slowly and saw a snooty-looking woman at a desk.

Before we said anything at all she said “twenty-six Euro.”

Taken aback, Lucas asked in English, “is this the catacombs?”

“Oui.”

We handed over the money and took our tickets, and then looked up at her, waiting for some kind of instruction. Without looking up from her book, she pointed to a hole in the floor. Lucas and I looked at each other, shrugged, and headed down and onto a spiral stone staircase.

The air got steadily mustier as we went deeper down. There were bracketed lamps bolted intermittently to the walls, and wherever their light touched the stone, lamp flora was growing. When the stairs finally ended it let us out into a stone tunnel, completely empty, and dark except for one lamp.

At the end of this tunnel, there was a fork, and the oldest man I have ever met was sitting there in a folding chair. He didn’t speak, but pointed to the right. It felt haunted, like we weren’t supposed to be there.

We walked through the narrowing tunnel, getting closer and closer to the main entrance. We stopped in front of the archway to read the words etched there: Arrête! C’est ici l’empire de la mort. Lucas translated for me in a whisper saying “Stop! This is the empire of the dead.” The significance of the words struck me as we ducked our heads under the arch and stepped inside.

I love everything spooky, and I thought I knew what to expect, but no article could have prepared me for the sense of existential enlightenment I found there.

Walking between the bones of millions of unknown people made me feel incredibly small. Looking back, I think that most people don’t take the experience as seriously as I did, but then again, most people don’t get to experience it the way I did. The catacombs are usually packed with people. Most people only have the time to snap a few pictures before they’re rushed out to make room for more tourists. It’s rare to find yourself alone down there, with only the souls of those long dead to keep you company.  

It was a little bit overwhelming for me to consider that many individuals as a whole. I felt drawn to them and wanted to be able to pay my respects in the same way you can in a modern cemetery.

I sat for a few minutes in front of just one skull. He was a person once, and I wanted to know him, but I knew I never could. This man (or woman) didn’t even get to be buried with his name. Thousands of people walk past him daily, but no one will ever be able to know anything about him. The last person he knew would have died hundreds of years ago, and his bones were dug out of an overcrowded cemetery and tossed together with countless others. I doubt any other tourists have ever even noticed this one person. How could they possibly? He has no distinguishing marks, and if you walked through the catacombs and spent even just a few minutes on each person, it would take you years to get through.

It made me sad for them, but it also helped me come to the realization that my own insignificance can be freeing. There are millions of people laid to rest within the miles of catacombs, billions of others who came before them in countries all over the world, and billions more alive today. I am just one person, not even a grain of sand on a beach in the big picture.

These men and women who lost their identities and individuality to be re-buried in a mass grave underneath the streets of Paris gave me the freedom to no longer care so much about what people think about me. I am free to live without fear of how I will be remembered, because in the scheme of things- it doesn’t really matter.

Nothing I do matters and no one will ever remember me. When I die I will end up a pile of bones, just like everyone else on the planet, and even then my bones won’t even get to be part of history. My bones won’t be displayed for tourists to gawk at, or for teenagers to deface. They’ll be put into a little wooden box, buried six feet under, and the only part of me anyone will ever see again will be a tombstone. Even then, they’ll probably only find it if they’re looking for it.

That freezing winter night, in the silent and empty catacombs, under a Paris bustling with Christmas shoppers, my outlook was completely changed.

If you want to read more about the catacombs and quarry tunnels under the streets of Paris, please check out this amazing National Geographic article and this one from Atlas Obscura.

And if you do go to Paris, I highly recommend prioritizing the catacombs. Its a wonderful experience and one that will stay with you forever.

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