Categories
France

My Paris

Paris was everything I ever wanted and more.

We flew in super cheaply on Ryan Air and we landed in Paris Orly. It was pretty frustrating trying to figure out how to get into the city, and then we ended up having to sit on a crowded bus for nearly an hour. We got dropped off and still had to take the metro to get to our hostel too. Off to an absolutely exhausting start. We bought some metro tickets and were looking at a map when a lady stopped us to try and help, surprisingly nice for what I expected from Parisians. She also explained that we didn’t need any tickets that day because the air pollution was high! So we saved them for the next day (which also turned out to be a high pollution day).

We made it to the hostel, which we loved. I have rave reviews of St. Christopher’s Inn Hostels. We rocked up and they upgraded our room to a private one for free! Can’t get much more magical than that!

The first night in Paris we ate a meal at the hostel’s restaurant and then went to Notre Dame. It was so beautiful, I couldn’t believe it. There was a choir inside and the ceiling seemed to swell with the music. We really took our time walking around, and I’m so happy we did because I might have missed one of the most amazing relics in any church – the crown of thorns. Its all the way at the back of the cathedral and it’s barely lit, you really need to look for it. I was amazed. Even if it isn’t the “real” crown of thorns, the power of that much belief and history makes it a really special relic.

The Crown of Thorns is at the back of the cathedral behind a red curtain.

While I was standing there, staring, with my jaw on the floor, someone called Lucas’s name. “What?” We both looked around. “There’s no way someone is calling for you, is there?” And this guy came up and shook his hand, “Lucas, it’s so crazy to run into you here, man!” Lucas introduced me and the guy said his name was Lars and introduced his girlfriend too. They knew each other from their time at university in Prague. The craziest part, besides the fact that they even noticed Lucas, was that they weren’t meant to be in Paris that day, and they hadn’t planned to come to Notre Dame at all, since they had both seen it before! It just felt like all the stars were aligned.

We parted ways and headed towards my favorite part of Paris- the catacombs. We had such a hard time finding it, we went to where the map said it was, but there wasn’t anything marked there. Just a small kind of shack looking building. I almost thought it was a house, and I was way too nervous to just go inside. I made Lucas open the door and there was a lady at a desk. We looked at each other and before we said anything, she said “26 Euro.” Lucas was so taken aback, he asked in English, “is this the catacombs?”

“Oui.”

We payed and she pointed to the stairs, so down we went. The air was getting musty, and the walls were turning green the deeper we went down. At the bottom of the stairs was a long tunnel and we followed it until we saw an incredibly old man sitting alone in a folding chair.

We walked through an archway and Lucas translated it for me- Stop, this is the empire of the dead. It felt like we shouldn’t have been allowed in, especially not alone. We walked slowly, talking about life and death. Sometimes we were silent. It was the only experience I’ve ever had like it, and when we reemerged to the Paris streets, bustling with Christmas shoppers it felt like a completely different world. For the rest of our experience in Paris I couldn’t stop thinking about all the dead beneath our feet.

The next day we woke up early to spend as much time as possible in the Louvre. We both had lists of artifacts that we were dying to see- a full day of art. It was incredible, I loved seeing the book of the dead, the Egyptian artifacts, and the statues, Lucas loved seeing Hamurabi’s code and Liberty Leading the People.

After the Louvre, we were starving, and we were lucky to find a McDonalds underneath the museum, where we indulged in some French sprite, which is better than any other sprite you can get. After our very late lunch, we walked along the Seine, and headed towards the Eiffel tower, which was on strike. I thought, at least we got to see it, and we walked through the Christmas markets drinking hot Vin Chaud and eating Nutella filled beignets.

We tried to visit the Pantheon the same night but it closes early. Luckily because it was closed I had the chance to peek into an interesting looking church that I probably wouldn’t have seen if we had gone straight into the Pantheon. The church was Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, beautiful white stone, spiral staircases, and the body of St. Geneviève – the patron saint of Paris. It was such a special find.

The next day was our final day in Paris. We walked past Notre Dame in the light, walked along the Seine, saw the Moulin Rouge, the Arc de Triomphe, walked Champs Elysees, and when we went to see the Eiffel Tower again, we saw that the strike ended early! I was elated. We went up the elevator and stopped on the first floor, where I was absolutely shook to see a fully fledged ICE RINK. We walked on the glass floor drinking Vin Chaud and taking pictures before going up to the next level, where there were shops and restaurants, and the third level, where you can walk around Gustave Eiffel’s apartments. There are wax figures and signs inside.

We still had some time in the day, so we walked back towards Notre Dame where we went inside the Paris Archaeological Crypt where we learned about the rocks and quarries of Paris. Right across the street was a wonderful little cafe where we got some escargot and French onion soup!

The final thing we did in Paris was visit the Pantheon. Lucas had stopped at a book stall on the walk and bought a couple of books. One of them happened to be Voltaire, and when we saw his grave, it was another one of those fateful moments. It was really special to pay our respects to so many important figures.

I love Paris!

Categories
Europe Spain

My Toledo

I’ve actually visited Toledo twice now, once in December of 2016 and once in March of 2018, It’s a great little town and if I didn’t recommend visiting, I wouldn’t be writing about it!

Lucas had already been before so he was my guide. We hopped on the bus from Madrid to Toledo with our student transport cards (I can’t rave enough about those cards by the way). It’s about an hour ride and super pleasant, through the Spanish countryside, but as a narcoleptic I have to admit that I slept through most of it.

The bus drops off at the edge/bottom of the city, and you have to go up a crazy long escalator to get into the city. At the time it was the longest escalator I had ever seen, it felt like we were on it for a good 5 minutes, but I’m quite certain I’ve been on longer escalators now in China and Russia.

We wandered through shops and streets while Lucas pointed out all of the examples of Arab, Jewish, and Christian architectural influences.

We went to La Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, the Mosque of the Light of Christ. Does that name sound a little weird to you? It is a tiny little Muslim Mosque built in 999 that was converted to a Christian Cathedral much later. The architecture, both inside and out is so distinct.

The best part of Toledo though is the cathedral. You would never expect anything like it from such a small city, but it’s the most beautiful cathedral I’ve ever seen, even many years, and cathedrals later.

Most of my pictures were taken on my phone, so I had to steal one to really show it.

You can spend HOURS in the Toledo Cathedral with an audio guide, so be careful if there’s more you want to do!

To complete our triad, we also visited the Synagogue of Santa María La Blanca, which is widely considered one of the oldest synagogues in Europe. The really significant part about it though is that it was built while the city was under Christian control, by Islamic Architects, intended for Jewish use.

By this point we were starving, and we tried to find a little restaurant that Lucas had eaten at before, but after wandering around hunting for it, we finally gave in to hunger and stopped at the first affordable one we saw – Corral De Don Diego. It turned out to be one of my favorite restaurants throughout Europe!

I don’t think the restaurant itself had anything really spectacular to offer, but it was magical to me. I had a salad with tuna and pomegranate arils, called an ensalada mixta that I immediately became obsessed with, but somehow I never had one quite as good again.

The best part though was that there was a guy playing accordion there (which I love). I took a little snapchat video to remember it.

When we went back with my brother in 2018, we sat at a cafe so Lucas could use the wifi to finish a project, and I heard another accordion that seemed a little too familiar, and I managed to catch the EXACT same bit of the song on video. It was straight up from the twilight zone.

We had a really late lunch (as usual, it seems like we always end up eating at weird times) and had just an hour before sunset, and decided on a whim to zipline across the river. I think it was only 10 Euro, and I figured why not?

We wandered through town in the dark, sat at the edge of the river looking at the lights and then walked back to the bus station to head back into Madrid!

Categories
Europe Spain

Toledo

I absolutely recommend a day trip to Toledo if you’re coming from Madrid. It’s so close and it has so much to offer. If you are a student, please look into getting a student transport card in Madrid, it also works for regional bus trips! But if you don’t have a student pass, the bus is only 5 Euro each way and a very pleasant drive. Bus picks up at Plaza Eliptica and takes about an hour. You can also take a train for 15 Euro each way and it only takes a half hour.

Usually when I do these city guide posts I include some things I consider “overrated,” but its such a small city that if you’re only spending one day it’s easy to fill it up without having time to go anywhere that’s not really worth the time. Nothing is really overrated.

Must Sees in Toledo:

  • Take a walk! Toledo is built on a hill, and there are beautiful views everywhere you look. The streets are tiny and winding and its very fun to get lost without really being lost. If you have an eye for it, pay attention to the differences between Christian, Islamic, and Jewish influences in the architecture. There are also lots of cute and interesting shops sprinkled through the city.
  • The Cathedral- It costs a few Euro to get in and a few more for an audio guide, but its well worth the money and time spent to really enjoy every inch of the most incredible cathedral in the world.
  • La Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz, the Mosque of the Light of Christ- It is a tiny little Christian church inside of a converted mosque built in the year 999. Really unique and well worth a visit just to appreciate the mix of cultures in the city.
  • The Synagogue of Santa María La Blanca – it is considered to be one of the oldest synagogues in Europe. (It is currently only being used as a museum though, even though the Jewish community has asked for it to be returned to them.) The really significant part about this synagogue is that it was built while the city was under Christian control, by Islamic Architects, intended for Jewish use; all three in one!
  • El Greco Museum – I have to admit I actually didn’t go myself, but Lucas went when he stayed in Toledo for 2 weeks and he absolutely recommends it. It’s built in a recreation of his house and has the largest collection of his paintings. In Lucas’s own words “that man knew how to use blues like no one else can.”

Off the Beaten Path

(I have to admit again, I didn’t get a chance to see these for myself, and I’m only going off of recommendations, but these mark all of my boxes, of interesting, unique, and quick visits.)

  • Roman Circus – In a park right outside the city walls, there are the ruins of a Roman circus, and over 75% of it is preserved!
  • Caves of Hercules – Its really just an ingenious Roman era water tank, but the history and legends surrounding it make it special. My favorite is that Hercules built a palace here to practice necromancy!

I also enjoyed the zipline over the beautiful river at sunset, but it’s not really a must see since it’s a pretty small zipline and that’s something you can do anywhere in the world, and it’s not really off the beaten path, since there are advertisements for it plastered all over the city.

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